The H. CarnubaAug 6, The coil doesn't determine weather you need a resistor, the dist. On my MSD electronic plug and play dist. Just give them the model of your dist. That's right from MSD. I've been running mine for a couple of months now and no trouble.
Usually the ballast resistor was put in place to make the points last longer in a points distributor GM used actual resistors, many Fords use a special "resistor wire" Most, if not all, electronic distributors you can eliminate the resistor and supply a full 12 volts to the distributor. The ballast resistor is there to make the coil perform correctly at start up.
Your coil is usually about a 9 volt unit, and when the motor is running it has its power supply routed through the ballast resistor. When you are cranking the starter motor the system voltage is sapped down to about 9 volts due to the load, so the ballast resistor is switched out of the circuit and you get full system voltage to the coil: about 9 volts. Perfect, you get a nice fat spark. Once the motor is running the ballast resistor switches back into the coils power supply and away you go, coil running on normal 9 volts again.
MorrismanAug 6, Well, with an Accel coil and what seems to be an electronic MSD dizzy, she will not idle with the ballast resistor wired in.
I've been driving it around for a while and it seems fine. It came to me barely running. It had a very small MSD coil which I believe to be for drag racing only doesn't have ample cooling abilities for constant driving. OK, this thing's pissing me off. I took off the drag coil and put the Accel on. So I remove it. Runs fine. I change the coil and it idles fine, but I put the Accel back on within 10 seconds and it idles too.
Can either coil be stressing something in the MSD distributor? DaneAug 6, You must log in or sign up to reply here. Show Ignored Content. Share This Page Tweet. Your name or email address: Do you already have an account? No, create an account now.Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
Index of Forums Recent Topics Search. Welcome, Guest. Username: Password: Remember me. Forgot your password? Forgot your username? Create an account. TOPIC: accel coil wiring diagram. I need instructions on how to install accel coils on a kz or a wiring diagram thank you Glassman. Just unhook the stock coils and hook up the same wires to the Accel coils.
There is no polarity on the Accel coils, so it does not matter which wire goes to which side of the coil. Or maybe it is a non running bike with no coils that you bought or something? You will also find that the mounting holes on the Accel coils are slightly wider than the mount holes on your frame. Otherwise you will have to fabricate a bracket I brought this as a project, it has a dyna s ign. Cam timing has absolutely nothing to do with the ignition on the KZ's anyway.
Need to get the Dyna experts in here, but I'll do the best I can in the meantime. Do you have 12 volts at the Dyna S ignition module? The wires from the two coils going to the Dyna should have volts, if not, check the power wires going to the coils from the wiring harness, they should have at least 12 volts. Check that then post again, maybe a Dyna expert will be here by then.By phatdaveMay 13, in General Technical.
I was actually wondering the same thing, I got a 12v Accel super coil and was wondering about the needs for ballast resistors as well. Hainz runs them but he says they're more intended for vehicles with points ignition.
testing HEI accel super coils
So are you saying then Dyslexic is that you bypassed the ballast resistors completely and just hooked up your pos and neg to the coil and was sweet? Dunno much about 'em, just wondering cause I got that super coil sitting in my tool box, and have been debating on whether or not to install it.
Would probably help produce a hotter spark for my over-carbed weber though :D. Thanks dislexic person. I will do it. I left it on when i hooked all that up a year and a half ago and kept the old coil and dizzy in my trunk in case it fried!
This is true. It will also save the EI system from excessive current flow also. IF, this coil was intended for use with points, then you should use the dropping resister. The EI coils had a higher internal resistance than the points coils to prevent excessive current draw through the EI system.
If the coil gets hot to the touch then I would hook the dropping resister back up. The EI matchboxes are tough but they weren't designed for use with a low impedance coil and could crap out any time.
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Re-starts and idles, but won't make enough power to even move the vehicle. The coil is slightly warm but not hot to touch. Ranting to a buddy, he said he's had bad luck with a couple Accel coils as well. Second go-round with this, last time I replaced points, condenser, rotor, cap. Everything dwell, timing is adjusted fine.
What say ye?? I'm just spit balling here, but did it ever cross your mind to post any other important information? Traditions RacingNov 10, Last edited: Nov 10, End all speculation by swapping it for a "known good" unit Iv'e know one to spit near the top and leak.
Tech Review: ACCEL’s Modular Coils Test On A 2-Valve New Edge ‘Stang
But thats about it for me. Even better to keep in the tool box in the trunk for emergencys if the accell turns out to be good anyways, not bad to have a spare. Accel coils suck and yours is bad, get a new one. The only way you are going to rule out the coil is replace. Any new part straight out of the box can be bad.
Bought a waterpump and one side didn't even get machined out for the water inlet to block. I have had the same problem myself. If your coil is on top of the engine move it away from there and mount it to the fire wall or inner fender if you can.
We chased a problem with my Son's rpu where it would run fine for about 10 miles then start cutting out and stalling.HEI Coil Test (The Short Version)
We were thinking vapor lock but one day he touched the coil and it was red hot. Come to find out Accel makes a couple of the chrome round ones, one for points and one for HEI, we had a point one and it was cooking the coil.Spark plug wires are the arteries of your hot rod; Providing a path for electrons to flow to the spark plug and creating a spark across the plug gap to initiate the combustion process and power stroke.
If this path is ever interrupted, a misfire will occur, robbing your engine of power and creating driveability issues Read More. Series champion Brett Moffitt and regular season champ Johnny Sauter each won six events. They're perfect for cramped engine bays and anytime space is tight around red-hot exhausts and come in in 10 different variations.
The End! That's everything! Check back later for new products. Close me! My Account My Cart. With an ever-expanding line of SuperCoils and all the spark plug wires, tune-up kits, and fuel injectors hot rodders have trusted and relied on for years, ACCEL is constantly developing innovative new products designed to push power, speed, and performance to match advancements in automotive technology.
Now part of Holley Performance, ACCEL offers a comprehensive selection of performance products, including coils, digital fuel injection systems, fuel injectors, distributors, caps, rotors, ignition wires, spark plugs.Some forums can only be seen by registered members. Union Proud. I unplug the boot from the distributor cap. I insert the positive test lead into the boot. I insert ground lead into neg battery post.
Turn ingnition on. I read 5 volts on the voltmeter. Was the test done correct. So I unplug the wire and touch the point on the coil to see if I get a different reading. Still 5 volt. To test a coil you need to be checking continuity. Doesn't the coil pictured have two terminals under the center tower? Originally Posted by teach M3 Mitch.
I don't know that the voltage reading you did proves much. Typically you can test a coil by taking it out of the circuit and checking resistance ohms on both primary and secondary you need the specs to know what you are looking at, but infinite ohms open circuit on either side, properly measured, means the coil is "open" and thus bad, likewise the primary circuit has a considerably lower resistance than the secondary - these are good for a rough check You can energize the coil and then interrupt the circuit by pulling a wire and see if that will cause a spark on an attached spark tester or spare spark plug.
It's been awhile since I tested a GM coil, but here is what conventional coils measure and I think the GM coil will not be far out of line: Check continuity between both terminals beneath the coil tower; it should read around ohms of resistance. Then check continuity or resistance between each flat terminal and the coil tower--it should be around Hopefully my new MSD one will be deliver today.
MSD should do you good. Accel coils have all been junk in my experience.Most late model engines have eight individual coil-near-plug units that get there power from an engine harness. In fact, you may have even had one or more of these fail over the years, as corrosion and underhood heat can be fatal to the sensitive electronic components. Thankfully, ACCEL Ignition has developed a set of replacements that are designed to withstand the tough conditions under the hood.
What does this mean to you? In short, they are capable of providing ten to fifteen percent more spark energy to the plug than an OEM coil pack — improved ignition energy helps to complete the fuel burn in the combustion chamber.
The first step in replacement is to disconnect the old coil pack from the harness. Make sure the engine is off when you are doing so — these things pack a punch! In addition, they are even producing Super Coils for the 5. The housings feature high temperature epoxy that is designed to resist shock and vibration as well as chemicals, all of which are present in the engine bay environment. As you can see, external dimensions are virtually identical, but inside the Super Coils have more spark energy thanks to more efficient internals.
We wanted to test a set out to see what kind of gains a typical replacement would net, so to that end we picked out this automatic transmission-equipped 40th Anniversary Mustang GT for a testbed.
Our baseline dyno test netted We then put a set of Super Coils into a new home under the hood of our Mustang and ran the car on the dyno again. A quick trip to the Power Automedia Dynojet netted us seven horses and seven foot-pounds of torque at the wheels. This time around, we spun the roller to As you can see from the dyno graph, the gains were realized all the way across the board and provided us with a noticeable seat-of-the-pants change. We chose to replace our coil packs as a complete set of eight - this way you minimize the chance of replacing one coil only to find out that there is another one causing an issue as well.
In our experience the stockers are good for around 70, miles; after that you're tempting fate. You'll know when one fails, as the car will have a noticeable miss.
A quarter-inch-drive ratchet, 7mm socket and a little bit of patience and you'll be back in business. Expect the swap to take somewhere around an hour. Not only do you save a couple of bucks over purchasing them individually when you buy as a set, but you only have to mess around with changing them once. The internal testing that ACCEL has done backs up the performance increase we were able to show on the dyno, and you might see even more of a gain on a supercharged or turbocharged vehicle.
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